Something to Taco ‘Bout

By Rick Dakan

Tacos, burritos, and other Latin and Tex-Mex cuisine have never been more popular in Sarasota than today, but the sad fact is many of us still end up getting our Taco Tuesday fix from mass-produced fast food joints. It doesn’t have to be that way! For about the same price, you and your family can eat a whole lot better than that reheated, microwaved junk. Two new taquerias have opened in Sarasota, each offering a unique and flavorful spin on traditional Latin street food.

Screaming Goat Taqueria
6606 Superior Ave., Sarasota

That’s quite a name. Chef and owner Malin Parker had it in mind for years before he opened the restaurant. The veteran chef had wanted to open a taqueria for at least two decades, and when the name “Screaming Goat” came up as joke with friends, he was in love with it. “I had the name before the goat on the menu,” Parker says. “My wife and friends were dubious, but I loved it. It was funny, creative, and memorable, everything I want our restaurant to be.”

At first, he wasn’t even sure he could get a good source of goat meat, but he found it. Now it’s not only going into tacos, but the restaurant serves an Ecuadorian-inspired Slow-Braised Goat Barbacoa Stew, a dish you’re not likely to find many places in Sarasota. “People come here and want an adventure in food,” Parker explains. “The more out of the box, the better the response has been.”

Screaming Goat is as casual and friendly as a restaurant can get. Order at the counter and build your own delicious creations from the restaurant’s stunning array of fresh, locally sourced ingredients, including beef barbacoa, chorizo, mesquite chicken, and sweet potato, quinoa & lentils. Then make it your own with toppings like pickled red onions, sweet corn relish, spicy mushrooms, cactus paddle-roasted onion, and some of the great, fresh house-made sauces. Or if you prefer, the chefs have six specialty tacos carefully balanced and full of flavor. I particularly loved the Masa-Dusted Cauliflower (a spicy, wonderful vegetarian option) and the rich and flavorful slow-cooked pork of the Cochinita Pibil with avocado-tomatillo salsa, arugula, pickled onion and queso fresco. Although Screaming Goat leans in on the adventure, more traditional taco fans can find plenty to enjoy here as well. 

TACOS – To Go
2773 Bee Ridge Rd., Sarasota

Taking over a prime location from a previous taco restaurant, restaurateur Tom Golen opened Tacos – To Go with a distinctive menu that reflects a lifetime of culinary adventure. “I’m just passionate about food,” says the former Wall Street trader. He spent his evenings and weekends going to culinary school and working in New York City fine dining restaurants. “When I retired from the trading floor, I decided to open a small restaurant on Siesta Key.” He had it for three years and recently sold it and opened up this one. “This is much more casual. Half of our customers get their food to go. We want it to be fun, fresh, and Siesta Key centric.”

That focus on Siesta Key and the beach is reflected in the menu’s seafood options. Tacos – To Go uses locally sourced ingredients for all its food, including the grouper for the fish dishes. “Everything is from scratch,” says Golen. “I do as much local sourcing as possible, particularly on produce. Nothing is precooked, all made to order, which makes it take a little longer, but you know it’s fresh.” I’m a particular fan of the delicious and refreshing ceviche taco, which is fresh-made ceviche served in a hard taco shell. 

The presence of ceviche highlights the fact that Tacos – to Go has a very eclectic menu. The ceviche is Peruvian. The decadent baleada (grilled tortilla filled with scrambled eggs, refried beans, and I suggest chorizo) is Honduran. The house-made gelatos (try the Kahlua Coffee or Horchata Almond) are Italian. The Latin Wok Stir Fry Bowl is unique, an organic lo mein or rice base with wok-sauteed Latin ingredients brought together to create one of the restaurants most popular dishes. It’s a wonderful, eclectic mix for the adventurous eater, but don’t worry, they do great versions of more traditional tacos too. There’s something quick and satisfying for anyone on the go.