Eat & Drink: A Taste of History

By Rick Dakan

I was born and raised in Sarasota, and grew up in a Sarasota School of Architecture home. I’ve always found the area’s quirky architectural history fascinating, and while I love some modern architecture, there’s a soft spot in my heart for the quasi-Spanish and neo-Mediterranean styles that dominated the city back in the 1920s. So I thought this month would be the a good time to visit some classic structures that now serve excellent food.

Cafe L’Europe

431 St Armands Cir, Sarasota

941.388.4415

Mon–Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Happy Hour: 4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily

From the area’s earliest days as a haven for wealthy northerners, St. Armands Key has been a destination for the discerning. Local legend and circus magnate John Ringling bought up much of the island in 1917 and started developing it into the residential and commercial circle we know today. In 1925, with the help of some circus elephants for hauling timbers, he oversaw the Ringling Causeway that links that circle to the rest of Sarasota.

The continental cuisine fine dining restaurant Cafe L’Europe dates back to 1973, but the historic building began as the real estate office of John Ringling himself as he oversaw the key’s development. He was reputed to have sat on its front porch and watched his circus performers practice their acts a short distance away. After Ringling, the building was used as a restaurant. In the 1940s, it was the Coconut Palms Restaurant, and in the 1950s, it was the popular Colombi Italian Restaurant before becoming the fine dining icon (Cafe L’Europe) that it is today.

Want a taste of something John Ringling might’ve enjoyed himself? Named for another rich and powerful man who left quite an impression, Oysters (John D.) Rockefeller dates back to 1889 when Jules Alciatore created it for his family-famous Antoine’s in New Orleans. Cafe L’Europe’s classic version starts with Louisiana oysters (of course) and tops them with creamed spinach, bacon, onion, parmesan, bread crumbs and hollandaise. One of my favorite appetizers pretty much anytime.

Sage

1216 1st Street, Sarasota

941.445.5660

Tues–Thur, 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m.

Fri–Sat, 5:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Do you remember Ringling Towers? That iconic bayfront building that stood empty for years before its final destruction? Now it’s where The Westin resides, one of many modern high-rises that have all but erased the 1920s-era Spanish-eclectic architecture that used to define downtown. Fortunately, right across the road there’s a prime example that has managed to survive: the former Sarasota Times building, now the new restaurant Sage.

Architect Dwight James Baum oversaw many of the signature Sarasota structures of the 1920s, including the Sarasota County Courthouse, the Sarasota Times building, and most famous of all, John and Mable Ringling’s fabulous Ca d’Zan mansion. The building later became an office for Owen Burns’ citrus business and eventually housed the briefly flourishing Ceviche restaurant several years back. Now Sage has breathed new life into a beautiful structure that might be a little small for a modern newspaper but is pretty enormous by downtown restaurant standards.

The restaurant has gotten a modern remodel inside, and a menu that’s “seasonal and globally inspired, combining fresh ingredients and cooking styles from around the world.” It’s unlikely that the city founders in the 1920s would’ve recognized what “vegan and gluten-free friendly” meant, but the modern diner can enjoy fine cuisine while admiring the view of the every-changing Sarasota skyline from the excellent roof-top deck.

Burns Court

Owen Burns was no John Ringling. However, back in the 1920s he owned most of downtown Sarasota and has certainly left his mark. When I was a kid growing up in Sarasota, Burns Court was not the best of neighborhoods, but in recent decades the quaint block of Mediterranean Revival bungalows have returned to their upscale roots and are a well-preserved slice of local architectural history. Burns lived at 431 Burns Lane.

Just a few steps away and named for Owen Burns himself is

Owen’s Fish Camp

516 Burns Court, 941.951.6936.

Sun–Thu, 4:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.

Fri–Sat: 4:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.

A high-end casual restaurant that specializes in seafood. Situated in a refitted classic wood Florida home, Owen’s has a great old-Sarasota feel different from the surrounding bungalows, but equally nostalgic.

For fine dining in those Mediterranean Revival buildings, there couldn’t be a more appropriate Italian Fusion cuisine than that of Amore Restaurant (446 Pineapple Ave., 941.383.1111, Tues–Sun: 4:30 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.), which is a fine dining experience with a menu that reflects both the old and new wealth of downtown Sarasota.