Eat & Drink: Hotel Restaurants

By Rick Dakkan

As I write this, we’re in full tourist season. But summer is coming, and with the heat comes emptier streets and a chance to get out to enjoy some of Sarasota’s finer things without the out-of-towners (as much as we love them) taking up all the seats and parking spots. One thing that makes this year’s summertime fun time different is the new cohort of fancy fine dining options at all the luxury hotels that have popped up downtown. Modern hotels compete on every level, and deluxe dining options are part of the package. I’ve had a chance to try out several of the new spots, and have some advice if you’re looking for an overnight staycation or just a night out.

The Sarasota Modern (1290 Boulevard of the Arts, Sarasota, 941.906.1290) or The Modern as it is sometimes called, is one of the newest boutique hotels to open, and to me one of the most interesting. It takes its inspiration from The Sarasota School of Architecture, which is near and dear to my heart since I grew up in a house designed by one of the movement’s premiere architects, Victor Lundy. The Modern’s restaurant takes its inspiration from another luminary of the movement: Paul Rudolph. It’s called simply Rudolph’s. 

Set adjacent to the hotel’s beautiful modern pool area, with a generous outdoor seating area and a striking circular bar and lounge area, Rudolph’s offers high-end cuisine nestled in a cool and inspiring setting. Of course the decor only gets you so far. It’s the food that matters.

“Each of the restaurant’s unique recipes have been designed with Paul Rudolph’s approach in mind, says The Modern’s Paul Romero. “Chef Salhoff was an architect in her own right when she created the menu at Rudolph’s. Her dishes offer a dramatic touch to both traditional and non-traditional dishes.”

The most non-traditional dish we tried was Seafood Charcuterie, which was delicious and intriguing. It included gator fish spread, which is just one way to eat alligator at Rudolph’s. “I’d have to say the Gator and Waffles is one of many dishes that set Rudolph’s apart,” Romero says. “It’s an unexpected, creative dish that pushes the boundaries and never disappoints.” Also satisfying is the boar shank and the roast duck. The wonderful dining room, lounge and patio are available for rental, with Rudolph’s providing catering. “With all three outlets combined we can seat 151 people,” Romero explains. “Clients also have the option to buy out the entire pool deck on top of the restaurant where we can fit an additional 200 people.”

At the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of scale there’s The Westin (100 Marina Plaza, 941.217.4777), which now dominates the downtown skyline. Most of us know about its rooftop bar, which boasts the best view of all the many new rooftop bars, but don’t pass on the restaurant inside. Evōq fits the classic mode of hotel fine dining. The menu features enough classics like steak and a signature burger to satisfy unadventurous guests, but branches out into finer fare for the epicureans. Seafood is in the spotlight here, although the oxtail flatbread catches my eye every time.

In many ways The Art Ovation Hotel (1255 N Palm Avenue, Sarasota, 941.316.0808) offers a similar approach to The Modern, also offering a boutique experience. I wrote about the stylish stayover spot a while back, but have since had the distinct pleasure of staying there for several nights, and really appreciated all the fine details and service. The dining, cocktail, and rooftop bar menu are all delightful, and the live music in the lobby is as eclectic and entertaining as everything else.

Not new, but still quite the swank scene, Jack Dusty at the Ritz (1111 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Sarasota, 941.309.2266) remains a luxurious destination on any evening. For me the seafood and the raw bar by the bay are the main draws. Of course there’s also the nearly exhausting list of craft cocktails to enjoy while drifting pleasantly about the very expansive lounge and pool deck area.